CV joints are joined to the ends of the driveshaft in all FWD (front-wheel-drive) cars. The ball-type joint for the outer CV joint and the tripod-type joint for the inner CV joint are the two joints. These joints are important mechanical components of your vehicle’s suspension system that allow you to drive safely and comfortably.
CV joint noise can occur when any part of your inboard or outboard CV joint fails when driving straight or turning your car. This flaw makes driving difficult and uncomfortable.
Continue reading to learn about the possible causes of your faulty CV joint, which will assist you in performing a fault inspection. You’ll also learn how to make repairs if your boots need to be replaced or your entire CV axle needs to be replaced.
What Causes Noise in Cv Joints?
When your CV joint makes noise while driving straight or making fast turns, it indicates that it is malfunctioning but not completely broken, as other things might impair the performance of your joints. The following are some of the reasons why your joint makes squeaky noises:
1. Boot clamps that have been damaged
Boot clamps keep your CV boots in place. These clamps ensure that the boots are securely fastened, preventing potential damage to your CV joint. If your boot clamps are damaged, your CV boot will loosen, accumulating debris inside your CV joint. This effect will result in an inner CV joint clunk, eventually resulting in CV joint noises while driving your vehicle. If you hear a clunking or squeaky sound coming from your joint, examine your boot area, the entire boot, and the clamps first.
Axles that have been in use for a long period are prone to producing steering noise or noise from their joints. Because the joints are worn out and need to be replaced, you will notice this. That is a common occurrence, as every mechanical component will need to be replaced at some point. They are long-lasting, but not indefinitely.
3. CV boots that don’t work
When your boots are broken, torn, or cracked, it’s one of the most typical problems with your CV joints. As a result of the lack of lubrication and the presence of corrosion, grease will begin to leak out through the boot, causing an accumulation of dirt on your CV joint, which can cause your CV joint to wear out much faster and even cease to function. Another result of dirt contaminating your CV joint is that it slowly destroys your joint.
You have a broken boot or CV joint if you see grease leaking from your CV boot through a tear or a fracture. In the event of significant damage, the oil will be visible on the internal surface of your wheel rim and the inside of your drive wheel area.
As your CV axle rotates, the leakage will most likely penetrate numerous areas of your car, including your chassis. That results in CV joint noise when moving quickly or turning sharply. When traveling at high speeds while turning, the noise level rises. Your CV joint can be entirely ruined if you drive with a malfunctioning CV joint.
4. Deficiency in lubrication
When your CV joints aren’t properly lubricated, friction builds up, stopping your CV axle from freely rotating. If your CV joints aren’t properly lubricated, they can make noise every time the axle starts turning. That implies that anytime you drive your automobile, you will hear noise from the inner CV joints. When traveling at a high rate, the noise gets louder. Only when traveling at a low speed, will you hear the noise.
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How do you fix cv joint noise?
Driving with a broken CV joint can put you in dangerous situations, which you must avoid. If you notice any of the indicators that your vehicle’s CV joint is failing, you should address it as soon as possible. To learn how to detect which CV joint is problematic, read our prior articles. When you recognize these indications or symptoms, you can detect a malfunctioning CV joint early enough to avoid costly repairs.
The most common cause of a broken CV joint is a busted CV joint boot. If you catch a malfunctioning CV joint boot before it causes damage to your joint, you may replace it and lubricate your CV joint with high-quality lubricants.
You don’t have to replace your CV axle or joint entirely. CV boot replacement is a cost-effective option; it is not a particularly costly component to acquire. New clamps and high-quality lubricant are normally included with a new CV joint boot.
If you don’t know how to change it yourself, you’ll have to hire a mechanic to assist you, however, if your vehicle’s CV joint is injured. It needs to be replaced with a new joint. Because a damaged CV joint cannot be managed or repaired, this is the case. In most cases, you won’t be able to buy a CV joint independently. You’ll need to purchase the full driveshaft.
If this is the case, we’ll teach you how to save money on labor by repairing your CV joint so that the noise doesn’t get to your nerves: This repair necessitates the use of your safety equipment. This is something we usually emphasize when discussing auto repairs. Before raising your vehicle off the ground, bring your mechanical tools box closer and turn your lug nuts about a quarter turn.
If your car has an axle nut right in the center of the wheel, you’ll need to remove it first before removing the lug nuts; double-check to see if this is the case. To do so, remove the cotter pin from your axle nut if one is present on your car.
The cotter pin resembles a bobby pin, but it has folded back ends to keep it in place. Using pliers, straighten the curved ends of your pin; this will help you remove it fast. If removing the cotter pin is proving tough, use lubrication to help you tug it out.
You can now remove the axle nut after properly removing the cotter pin. Please notice that you must remove the axle nut; this is considerably safer. Axle nut sizes vary from vehicle to vehicle. To enhance your chances of acquiring the proper size for your car, make sure you have a variety of socket sizes.
It’s time to raise your car. Use a car lift or a jack to accomplish this. Either of those alternatives is a good choice. Make sure you understand how to use whichever choice you choose. See your vehicle’s owner’s manual for the appropriate jacking position if you’re using a jack. Before raising your vehicle, make sure it’s in park mode, and the brakes are engaged. After that, place your automobile on the jack stands.
Assume you choose to use a car lift, which is less complicated. To avoid incorrect placement, examine the manufacturer’s handbook for the ideal position to fix the lift adaptors. Remove your wheels after raising your vehicle and completely removing the lug nuts. To view under your automobile, use a suitable work light.
Your brake rotor and caliper will be visible once your wheels have been removed. The brake caliper housing is a big component attached to the rotor’s outside. Mounting bolts in a bracket hold the brake caliper in place. The model of the car determines the configuration. Because your brake caliper is connected to your brake line, you must lock it in place rather than letting it hang.
Detach your tie rod from your steering knuckle at this point. Your steering knuckle, located at the back of your rotor, is normally attached to your outer tie rod.
Disconnect your strut tower’s hub. Two bolts are usually used to secure your hub and strut tower together.
When going straight, CV joint noise can be highly irritating and uncomfortable. That’s why you’ll need to figure out how to remedy it as quickly as feasible.
When working beneath your vehicle, always take precautions. Check that your brakes are in park mode and that you’ve taken extra precautions to ensure that this repair is done safely.